Sunrace 8-Speed Freewheel

Product Information

Within a given brand/style of rear derailer, all "speed numbers" are generally interchangeable. This applies to all indexable models, basically everything manufactured since the late 1980s. There are a few exceptions: The Shimano Hyperglide cassette body has become a de facto industry standard. Many other manufacturers make hubs and cassettes that are compatible with Shimano. There are exceptions and partial compatibilities. Some of the other manufacturers offer cassette bodies to fit different brands and models of cassettes. SRAM "ESP" or "Exact Actuation" derailers and shifters (generally designated by a decimal model number: 7.0, 8.0, 9.0 etc) can only be used if the shifter and rear derailer are both ESP. A Jtek ShiftMate pulley adaptor can make a SRAM shifter work with a Shimano derailer, or vice versa. All SRAM 10-speed derailers and shifters are of yet a third type. All recent freewheels and threaded hubs, regardless of where made, use ISO threading. The older British and Italian standards use the same thread pitch but a very slightly different thread diameter, and are generally interchangeable. However, for strong riders and on tandems, it is best not to mix and match -- freewheels sometimes do strip the threads of aluminium hubs. A French freewheel may start to thread onto an ISO/British/Italian hub but will soon bind. An ISO/British/Italian freewheel will skim the top of the threads of a French hub and will slip forward if an attempt is made to use it. Do not force a freewheel -- you will ruin the hub. You could now clamp the inner body in a vise by the pawl recesses, and unscrew the wheel. This is how to remove a freewheel when you can't use a freewheel remover. Removing the inner body makes reassembly of some freewheels easier, but there is some possibility of damage from the vise jaws.

Dura-Ace 7800 and 7801 10-speed hubs (and Ultegra wheelsets) with the aluminum Freehub body and tall splines accept only Dura-Ace, Ultegra and 105 10-speed cassettes. Triplizer (adaptor) chainrings for 130mm BCD area available from Spa cycles, but IIRC a record ace will have a 144mm BCD chainset in which case a 'red clover' triplizer might be the only off the shelf option. you don't need to buy the spacer, because you can use the spacer that came between the original flat 13 and the 14.)First scrape off as much grit and grime as you can, then flush the old lubricant out of the freewheel before relubricating it, To do this, you will need a parts cleaning bath, preferably with a sprayer. Loosening the outer ring by a couple of turns can create a larger gap into which to spray the cleaning solution. Yes, SRAM and Shimano 8-speed cassettes are generally interchangeable. If you have either SRAM or Shimano components, you can use cassettes from either brand without compatibility issues, as long as you're not changing the whole groupset. 5. Do freewheels wear out?

But also, most Uniglide Freehubs can be updated by installing a Hyperglide ratchet body. This is an easy and inexpensive modification (see below.) For example, Shimano doesn't make any true "corncob" (one-tooth-jump) cassettes for time-trialists or flatland riders. In 7 speed, the closest is the J (13/14/15/16/17/19/21). Triple" front derailers have a wide, shaped inner cage plate. They generally work OK with double chainrings as long as the step between the chainring sizes is matched to the derailer.For perfect matching, you might substitute different spacers, use alternate cable routing, or use a Jtek ShiftMate pulley adaptor. Very early Freehubs (sometimes identifiable by the absence of the typical bulge on the right end of the hub barrel) which have non-interchangeable bodies. The Freehub body of these hubs is held on only by the axle bearings, and will slip off once the axle is removed. The left side of the outer freewheel body looks like this. The steps of the rachet and a bearing race are visible. The type of grease used is not all that important, but you must use something. The anti-seize compound that is commonly used for spoke nipples also works. Narrow chains bring other problems, though. They are usually more expensive and -- with 10 or more speeds -- don't last as long -- even when used in the intended system.

While rear indexing is the same for all recent shifters/derailers, Shimano fronts use a different amount of cable pull for drop-bar vs flat-bar controls.In practice this "problem" almost never materializes. Many, many cyclists are using 9- and 10-speed chains with older cranksets and having no problems whatever. New Chainrings, Old ChainsGoing the other direction, using wider chains with chainrings intended for narrower chains is not generally a major problem if there's only a one- or two- generation difference. The only problem you might run into is that the chain will be more liable to rub on the inside of the bigger chainrings in the small/small crossover gears, gears you shouldn't be using in any case. So my question is does this have a good chance of working or might there be problems? What pitfalls do I need to look out for? I made a spreadsheet of the gear ratios and they look very good. There is no large gap in the lowest 2 gear ratios and the middle gears that I mostly use are also very nicely spaced (between 11 and 14% gap).

Not all 8-speed cassettes are compatible. Campagnolo and Shimano 8-speed cassettes have different spacing, so it is generally not possible to achieve proper indexing when combining a Campagnolo 8-speed wheel with a Shimano shift system, or vice versa. 3. Is a cassette better than a freewheel tool? This is easy to do, and generally requires no disassembly. Warning, though: unless the freewheel body is clean, the oil will carry grit and grime into the mechanism! Do you need to replace an older, threaded rear hub to update to a modern, index-shifting drivetrain? Campagnolo 8-speed cassettes used a slightly different spline pattern from the current pattern used for 9-and 10-speed systems.Now you thoroughly clean all the parts of the freewheel mechanism. I (John Allen) use solvent followed by a strong solution of dishwashing detergent and a water rinse. I dry the parts afterward with paper towels to prevent rust. With other freewheels, reassembly can be more difficult. In days of yore, there were special bobby-pin-like clips to hold the pawls compressed against their springs while you re-assembled the freewheel. These are no longer available.